Ford crossover steering driver#

Our ends utilize a durable Kevlar boot that will give you many years of dependable service. Our ends are built with the best of both worlds, this is crucial in some applications (particularly 67-87 GM straight axle trucks) as many times the bend in the draglink has to start as soon as possible to clear the engine crossmember, the extra shank on draglink ends makes that impossible. Factory GM tie rod ends are nice and short, but have very little angle capacity. Factory GM draglink ends have good angle capacity, but have long shanks that can cause clearance issues. Our tie rod ends are manufactured specifically for us. Our tie rod ends are a metal-on-metal design for the ultimate in durability, see details on that here. We use the shortest tie rod ends possible (not OE draglink ends) because that can be crucial for engine crossmember clearance, often the offset bend needs to start as soon as possible. Notice the appearance of the metal-on-metal end (at right), it was very difficult to cut due to the heat treat. Additionally, the plastic ends don't appear to have a heat treat, our band saw flew right through them. Many joints are built with a plastic race that don't hold up well, see the picture below. Our tie rod ends are a metal-on-metal design with a preload spring on the bearing race (sort of like the upper kingpin on a Dana 60), that helps keep the joint tight even as the parts wear. Our draglinks use heavy wall 1020 DOM tubing and the best possible construction techniques. If needed the draglink is bent to help tie rod end angle and to clear the engine/crossmember. Our draglinks are already cut to the correct length and directly threaded (not welded). These crossover steering systems are designed specifically for the '67-91 Trucks and SUVs.

We're the ExpertsAsk us anything.No cutting, welding, or fab work required!.

and if you buy the R121 it is warrantied by Snap-On. This reamer is not the best but it will work fine as long as you use a slow drill speed and good lubricant. We can do the reaming for a nominal $15 per ream charge or you can purchase a relatively inexpensive snap-on R121 reamer for around $45. You also may need a reamer to complete this conversion. Please call for custom tie rod and draglink lengths. Or purchase one of our flat top knuckle kits with the custom arms already tapered.Ĭustom lengths are available upon request. You will need to ream the knuckle and pitman arm in order to move your tie rods on top.

Measure the center of the hole where the tie rod installs.īronco Tie rod and draglink with 7/8-18 TREs, Jam nuts and 1.125' x.

Ford crossover steering driver#

You will need to measure from the center of the pitman arm tie rod to the passenger knuckle tie rod then from passenger knuckle to driver knuckle. There are a lot of different configurations for this kit so each one is built to order. I have found that the DOM material we furnish is very compatible with the related parts in strength.

The sector shaft is not what I want broken as not too many people carry a replacement steering gear.

I would rather bend something on the trail that I can straighten or replace. The sector shaft will be the weakest link in most cases especially if you have the 2wd F100 box. While doing a good job of not bending the heavy duty rods relay the forces generated to the tie rod or rod ends as well as the steering arms, knuckles, pitman arm and steering gear sector shaft. Some companies are over-building tierod and draglink tubes, this may be useful if you are trying to push rocks or be towed by the tierod in your effort to keep tube bending at a minimum.